Kurdistan, Day 3

Day 3 we head out for the city of Sulymaniya, stopping along the way to walk through the bustling bazaar in Koya.

Men with weather-beaten faces sit playing backgammon, turbans snugly around their heads.

In an old caravanseri, a resting-place for travelers, we  explore the crumbling stone rooms.

Shopkeepers do brisk business in the days befere the holiday celebrations.

As we drive away we see an incredibly long line of white trucks waiting at the government-subsidized gas station, while practically across the street a private (and therefore more expensive) station sits empty.

In Sulymaniya, we are granted special admission to the museum, home of many beautiful and ancient artifacts from the cradle of civilization.

After lunch at the 'social club' we take a walk to the sobering Red House where Saddam tortured thousands of Kurds. In the basement, bathed in the glow of deep red lights, we see shocking images from the gas attacks on the city of Halabja.

 Outside, tanks and anti-aircraft guns gleam silently in the afternoon sunshine. Inside, a glittering cave serves as a memorial for those killed in various acts of violence.

The bazaar is jam-packed with shoppers buying everything from clothes to pots and pans to fruits, veggies, herbs, and some very fresh lamb. Much larger than the bazaar in Koya, this is a huge conglomeration of covered walkways and crowded streets that have been closed to traffic. We tail Balin slowly, trying to soak it all in without getting lost.  I've been to quite a few bazaars like this one, but they never fail to fascinate, perhaps because it gives us visitors a glimpse into the everyday life of the people. 

Day 4 was for exploring Erbil. 

 We started out the morning in the quiet citadel, exploring the hammam (public bath), as well as some gorgeous yet rather dilapidated houses that were for the citadel's more wealthy residents.

 We ventured down into yet another crazy bazaar before heading off for lunch....

 ....making the obligatory sign stop on the way, of course!

 We had lunch in a small enclave of western-ness, where we enjoyed pizza and met the owner of the tour company, an American who came to Iraq with the army years ago and has been there ever since. It was bizarre to sip my beer, overlook an empty go-kart track, talk politics and tourism, and even see some blackhawk helicopters fly over the city. We returned the next day out of boredom as we waited for our flight, where Kathy, Evelyn and I were the only women driving GoKarts as the sun sank over Kurdistan...

Meanwhile, as the sun was sinking on our last day with Balin, we drove out of Erbil, down a twisting road through delightful hills, to Saladin Castle... or what's left of it.

Built along a ridge with a clear view of the surroundings valleys, the castle wasn't very big but was at an advantageous lookout point. There is also the remains of a cemetery that contains some ancient gravestones, some with Cunieform writing. 

 Here we had a chance to watch the sun sink and contemplate our journey.....