Doing Dubai

Dubai at its finest for one last week before summer starts its smothering descent...



Shooting up in a glass elevator for tea at the Burj al Arab, the Gulf spreading under my feet, the Palm and the World to either side, the skyline stretching itself thin. The lobby is breathtaking, the carpets gaudy and overdone; the bar is futuristic in primary colors, contrasting the exotic tea and tiny sandwiches and dainty pastries served from Burj-shaped towers of plates. The fountain in the lobby claims to be the highest-reaching in the world (but of course!), and I'm mesmerized by it's jewel-toned jets of curving water while waiting for the immense gush that never materializes, much to my disappointment.






The richest horse race in the world takes place in Dubai each year - horses, trainers, jockeys, owners from all over the world try to take home a piece of the prize... expats and locals alike turn up in their finery to see and be seen, and I was no exception, playing dress-up for the occasion:

after sipping champagne with friends-of-a-friend, we arrived at the racetrack and nabbed seats in a prime location, on the lawn between the walking ring and the track. It was amazing to soak up the sunshine and the sights - the elegant and the ridiculous dresses and the colorful hats, eye-catching with their bright plumage, kept my eyes busy. The racing action came and went, each race getting more prestigious, the purses bigger, the crowds larger, before culminating with the $6 million race - it was breathtaking to watch Invasor take the lead and hold it down the stretch, feel the thunder of the hooves, hear the crowd around me encourage their favorites. My perch from a chair allowed me a fabulous view! Always catering to Dubai's expat population, bars and restaurants had stands open for hours before and after the races, and many came only to socialize and didn't see a single horse the entire day...starting a debate about the whole point of the day.



I finally experienced the heart of Dubai's beginnings along the Creek. Textile Souk, Spice Souk, Gold Souk, Old Souk... twisting alleys, covered walkways, buildings rebuilt to resemble their authentic past, shopping of all kinds - from handfuls of dried flowers and spices to ornate golden jewelry... the part of Dubai that feels real, as locals mix with visitors and expats, and I turn down 27 offers of fake designer handbags...